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Lismore Island

Writer: Barry Quatermass
Barry Quatermass
11 hours ago
3 min read

We had been in Argyll for a few days now, and our agenda had largely been dictated by the inclement weather. There were no complaints, though; we had all found plenty of opportunities to challenge our photographic skills. No more so than Tom, who decided to take a different approach to the rest of us, by taking two film cameras with him. One of them was a plate camera!


That said, when somebody suggested a visit to a small, seemingly off-the-beaten-track island just off the coast, around an hour's ferry journey from Oban, there was unanimous agreement. If the weather was going to dictate our routine, we might as well have an adventure along the way! We decided to catch the first ferry out and the last one back, making the most of our time on the island.

Nighttime waterfront town with glowing buildings, a blue-lit hilltop fortress, and orange clouds reflecting on the water
Leaving Oban on the Lismore Ferry - Les Pickstock

We found ourselves at the front of the queue, waiting in the dark for what turned out to be one of the smallest car ferries we had ever seen. Loading was quick and informal and, before we knew it, we were on deck, looking forward to the day ahead. Les was quick enough to turn his attention back towards Oban and capture a fantastic image of the town, lit up in its night-time splendour.


Once on Lismore, things didn't quite go to plan. What we had interpreted as roads on the map often turned out to be little more than farm tracks, while other routes ended rather abruptly at closed farm gates. Unwilling to venture anywhere we might not be welcome, we retraced our steps and eventually, after half an hour or so, arrived at the tiny and wonderfully quaint village of Port Ramsay.

White house with a red roof on a grassy hill, framed by a tall green tree under a dramatic cloudy blue sky.
A Lone House, Ramsay - Barry Quatermass
Sailboat anchored on calm blue water before steep brown-green mountains under a cloudy sky
The Lake near Port Ramsay - Rob Devenish
Black-and-white sailboat on a calm bay, with mountain silhouettes and cloudy sky reflected in still water.
The Lake captured on film - Tom Lee

Here, the weather turned beautiful and we found ourselves in a photographic goldmine. Fishermen's cottages, picturesque bays, boats and wonderful views across Loch Linnhe towards the 2900 feet of Sgurr Dhomhnuill. What was supposed to be a thirty-minute stop turned into a ninety-minute exploration. Nobody seemed particularly keen to leave!


Eventually, it was time for coffee, so we headed for the Lismore Gaelic Heritage Centre and Café. What a find! Excellent coffee, possibly the best panini's in the world, and some very helpful advice on exploring the island and negotiating those troublesome closed gates.

Stone cottage with a thatched roof and bench in a grassy countryside under a bright blue sky.
The Bothy at the Heritage Centre - Dave Newby
Rustic historic room with thatched roof, stone walls, wooden beams, old furnishings, framed portrait, and a DONATIONS box.
Inside the Bothy - Dave Newby

Having also enjoyed a wander around the traditional thatched croft display, we set off towards Point, at the northern end of the island, where a small foot ferry provides another link to the mainland.

Red-and-blue boat on calm blue water beside a concrete pier, with green islands and mountains under a cloudy sky.
Foot Ferry arriving at Point - Barry Quatermass

Once again, there was no shortage of photographic opportunities, and we soon dispersed in different directions, each finding something to catch our eye.

Bright blue lake below grassy hillside and distant mountains under a vivid sky with fluffy clouds, serene landscape.
A view from the Brock - Les Pickstoch
Green rocky hillside overlooking a blue bay and distant mountains under large cloudy sky.
An alternative view from the Brock across Lock Linnhe - Barry Quatermass

A further visit to the café (well, it would have been rude not to!) meant that the remaining time on the island was getting a little tight. Nevertheless, we managed to fit in the Tirfuer Broch, negotiating another set of closed gates along the way, the remains of the fourteenth-century Cathedral of St Moluag, the remarkable ruins of Coeffin Castle and finally the small port of Achnacroish, where we continued taking photographs while waiting for our return ferry.

Two older men with cameras stand on a grassy lakeside hill, one holding a large tripod camera, under a bright blue sky.
Tom and Dave contemplating their next shot - Rob Devenish
Stone ruin with rusted corrugated roof in grassy field, backed by distant mountains under a dramatic cloudy blue sky.
Ruined Barn at the Brock - Les Pockstock
Ivy-covered ruins on a rocky island above calm water, beneath dramatic clouds and blue sky.
Coeffin castle - Barry Quatermass

Black-and-white seascape with dramatic clouds over rocky ruins, shoreline, and distant mountains under a moody sky.
Castle Coeffin on film - Tom Lee
White stone church with graveyard, a person at the gate, and a blue SUV under a bright cloudy sky.
Lismore Cathedral - Dave Newby

We were all delighted with the day's adventure. We had captured some wonderful images, met some lovely people and, for once, the weather had played its part beautifully.

We settled into the journey back, thinking the day was more or less over, but Lismore clearly had a few more surprises in store. First came a wonderful sunset, seemingly presented especially for our return crossing. Then, as if that wasn't enough, a pod of dolphins appeared alongside the ferry, swimming with us for some time before eventually disappearing beneath the water.

Blue-toned landscape with a lone tree on a rocky hillside beneath a heavy cloudy sky.
A lone tree on film on our way back to the ferry - Tom Lee
Rusty broken window in a cracked white wall, looking out to green trees and a distant house.
Broken window at the waiting area of Lismore Ferry - Rob Devenish

And finally, to round off a thoroughly enjoyable day, we found ourselves enjoying fish and chips at the George Street Fish and Chip restaurant in Oban.


An excellent end to an excellent day. Lismore had certainly delivered!

 
 
 

2 Comments

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LesP
7 hours ago

Almost an ‘adventure’ brought back to life.

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Tom Lee
11 hours ago
Rated 5 out of 5 stars.

A continuation of the excellent road trip around Scotland by the Wirral Photographers Group.

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